Recipes & More

The best tip I ever received about mayonnaise came from Fanny and Johnnie Cradock. In their book A Cook’s Essential Alphabet, Johnnie describes an occasion when Fanny left the mixer beating egg yolks and went to answer the phone — only to return much later to find a thick, almost white batter waiting…

I love a good vinaigrette — one that barely coats the salad leaves and has enough acidity to cleanse the palate. I abhor salads where the leaves are drowning in a sappy mayonnaise soup, something that is all too common in the UK, USA and my mate Yann’s…

  For context on choosing fish with confidence at market, see Fearless with Fish →A defining dish of western France — precise technique, patient heat and clarity of flavour.In Poitou-Charentes and along the Loire, beurre blanc is not an embellishment; it is identity. Traditionally paired…

Introduction In the autumn and winter I like to use whatever meat is plentiful in my ragu. Wild rabbit and wild boar (with bitter chocolate) are particular favourites, lamb shanks can be fantastic, goose too. I made this version with duck legs mostly drumsticks, but…

Our goal is to produce a clear, clean liquid which will enrich and enhance anything that it is added to, without imposing a flavour of its own.

I have or thought I had a ‘Zucca piena di Napoli’ squash growing, a rare Italian variety with a beautiful blue-ish green hue. While I was away last week it turned a pale tan colour because it is actually butternut squash. No complaints butternut has…

At the end of our summer squash season we ended up, as you often do, with a couple of giant zucchini\courgettes. They are best eaten when smaller, but were perfect for these loaves. To readers outside the U.S. think cake rather than bread, this is not savoury. The nearest things I can compare it to are a carrot cake and the Jamaican Ginger cakes that were popular when I was growing up in the UK.